Austria Salzburg

Austria’s SalzburgerLand Casts an Alpine Spell

Written by Jane Wilson
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When it comes to Alpine wonderlands, SalzburgerLand is as good as it gets.

The Austrian province in Upper Austria, north of Salzburg and bordering Germany’s Bavaria, overflows with glittering lakes interlaced with flower-filled meadows, soaring mountains, upright forests, castles and charming villages, is a combination of all you imagine an alpine adventure to be. Add in the city buzz of Salzburg and the reassuringly nationalistic sounds of Mozart playing from your ear pods and it’s safe to use a cliché or two here —Salzburgland is truly beautiful and breathtaking.

Throughout the year, it offers every type of adventure, from mountain biking, hiking, climbing, coasteering, and canyoning to cable cars and chairlifts that glide riders to higher ground with ease. Novices and experts can connect with professional guides to experience the thrills of outdoor mountain life on gentle or challenging, well-marked trails.

Prefer the water? No problem. There’s boating, kayaking, swimming, paddle boarding and paddleboard yoga for all levels. You can even take to the air by paragliding, hand gliding and ballooning. Want more?

Traditional sports such as tennis, riding, golf and fishing are all at your fingertips too, as are guided tours of local caves and mines.

If it sounds too good to be true, there’s only one way to find out.

 

 

Austria Salzburg

St. Wolfgang is the smallest of the three villages huddled on the slopes of the distinctive Schafberg Mountain

 

The Setting

Most of SalzburgerLand is pure awe-inspiring scenery. In the early morning, the mist rises over meandering streams, the gabled chalet roofs taking shape and pointing to snow-sprinkled peaks. Cowbells jingle in the distance and terraces overflow with draping floral displays while feathery mixed forests of needlewood, beech and pine cascade over slopes mirrored in the region’s many lakes, all pristine and serene.

The state’s highest mountain is Grossvenediger at 3662 metres. Austria’s deepest and longest gorge is Liechtensteinklamm while SalzburgerLand’s Hohe Tauern National Park is one the largest in Europe.

Whether treading the 10,000 kilometres of hiking trails or pedalling along the 7,000 kilometres of biking trails, there are over 550 mountain huts that bid travellers a warm welcome with homemade hearty food.

 

Discover

Lake Fuschl

The crystal waters of Lake Fuschl is renowned for its purity, in fact it is drinking water quality and is the clearest and cleanest of the lakes in the region. Due to the clean water, the underwater vegetation is perfectly preserved with many restrictions in place to protect its natural state and quality for around fourteen species of fish and the flora and fauna.

Historically, when Salzburg was still a church principality, the lake was reserved exclusively for the fishing of archbishops, which meant that the complete catch from the lake landed on the Archbishop’s table. Today, with the abundance of fish, the Fuschl Castle Fischerei (fishery) attracts many locals and tourists to taste the specialty fish dishes (the fish soup is a must) served on wooden tables next to the boathouses or the intimate café inside. It also makes a good viewing place to watch the paddleboarders maintaining their balance as they set out over the gentle surface.

The flat lakeside circular hike takes about 3 hours, and is an easy scenic walk that hugs the water’s edge most of the way. The lake is located at a height of 664 meters above sea level. Weather permitting, there is a boat ride on an electrically operated wooden barge. The town of Fuschl am See sits on the shores of the Fuschlsee and is the corporate home of the company Red Bull.

Austria

Hohensalzburg Fortress is the biggest fully preserved castle in Central Europe and also the emblem of Salzburg City

 

Fuschl Castle

On the banks of the lake’s western edge is Schloss Fuschl, a centuries-old retreat historically frequented by royalty and cultural luminaries.

This historic castle with its four-storey tower was built in the style of the Renaissance, around the middle of the 15th century. From the beginning, it served as a hunting lodge for the archbishops of Salzburg and its court. Since the dissolution of the principality of Salzburg in 1803, and its unification with the Austrian Empire, the castle has had many owners. After World War II, the “Schloss Fuschl” was returned to its owner, and since then, has served as a hotel, reopening recently as the Rosewood Schloss Fuschl, a five-star lakeside historic retreat.

Silent Night

The story of the world’s most famous Christmas carol, “Silent Night! Holy Night!” is inseparable from this region. Joseph Mohr, who wrote the text in 1816, served as the assistant priest in Hintersee and helped the poorer rural people of the village by purchasing meat from poachers and distributing it but was imprisoned for his acts.

Hidden amongst the trees is a Joseph Mohr Memorial Chapel and trail dedicated to his kindness. During Advent, the Joseph Mohr Lantern Walks take place and stories about the Silent Night village of Hintersee and the eventful life of the famous assistant priest of Hintersee are shared.

 

Austria Salzburg

Hellbrunn Palace with its trick fountains

 

Lake Wolfgang

The lake is famous for the boat excursions that connect the picturesque towns of St. Gilgen, Strobl and St. Wolfgang. Inviting and framed by mountains, the lake’s high-quality water has earned it the current status of ‘EU reference water’. It is spectacular at Christmas when lit by a giant lantern.

St. Wolfgang

On the Upper Austrian side of Lake Wolfgangsee, this is the smallest of the three villages huddled on the slopes of the distinctive Schafberg Mountain. St. Wolfgang, population 2,800, is steeped in myth and legend and has a fairytale feel thanks to ornate facades of character buildings and floral displays.

Central to the village is the 12th-century pilgrimage church of St. Wolfgang, which houses a towering, intricately carved winged altarpiece. Outside stands the bell tower and opposite is a traditional family-owned honey cake maker. Since 1520, the ancestors of the Wallner family have been active in St. Wolfgang as innkeepers, grocers, gingerbread makers, wax chandlers, and mead producers. Now, in its 17th generation, the family makes and sells gingerbread made from honey produced from the raw materials of beekeeping for the numerous pilgrims who visit the church of St. Wolfgang.

Austria’s steepest cog railway, the Schafbergbahn, climbs to the summit of the 1,782-meter Schafberg mountain for panoramic views of the Dachstein Mountains. At the top, is the rocky arch known as the “Felsiger Türbogen” or the “Himmelspforte” (Heaven’s Gate) leading towards Lake Mondsee. It takes 35 minutes to reach the top (or a three-hour hike), where there is a restaurant and hotel with great sunrise and sunset views.

 

Austria Salzburgland

Mozart balls (Mozartkugeln) are specialties of Salzburg, filled with marzipan, pistachio and nougat (photo from daringgourmet.com)

The city of Salzburg

The fourth largest city in Austria, Salzburg is a baroque city whose old quarter was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997 and is well-known as the home of Mozart not to mention iconic scenes from the film classic The Sound of Music.

Towering above the city is the mighty 11th-century Hohensalzburg Fortress, the largest fully preserved fortress in central Europe, accessed by the Festungsbahn funicular railway, Austria’s oldest funicular railway. The fortress often hosts chamber music and classical concerts.

Mozart’s residence from 1773-1781 is now a museum on the first floor at Makartplatz 8 which shares the history of the house and life of the Mozart family.

This walkable city steers through narrow alleys opening to spacious squares, prince-archiepiscopal residences, monasteries and numerous churches and the central Baroque Cathedral. Colourful and enchanting, the Mirabelle Gardens are dotted with fountains, a dwarf garden and maze.

The Museum of Contemporary Art has two locations, the Rupertinum in the old quarter in a baroque townhouse and the museum on Mönchsberg Mountain. And for fun and surprise, Hellbrunn Palace entertains with its trick fountains secretly laid in moving figurines, deceitful water characters in mysterious positions and set in mystical grottos. It was built as a pleasure palace for Salzburg’s prince-archbishops. Watch out for hidden water jets.

 

Austria Salzburg

Mirabell Palace and the Mirabell Garden are amongst Salzburg’s most popular attractions

Where to Stay

Arabella Jagdhof Resort

The Arabella Jagdhof Resort offers 143 rooms just minutes from Lake Fuschl. Grab one with a balcony or terrace for gorgeous views over meadows and the Salzburg mountain framework. There is an excellent wellness centre and pool, as well as a small fitness room.

Regional produce, locally produced drinks and award-winning honey from their beehives are served during the appetising breakfast buffet and at the restaurant. I highly recommend the pumpkin cream soup. Or indulge at the weekend with the multi-award-winning 3-toque chef Johannes Fuchs. Arabella Jagdhof Resort, am Fuschlsee is owned by Marriott Hotels & Resorts.  www.marriott.com

Seevilla, Wolfgangsee

Set along Wolfgang Lake is the chic 29-room Seevilla Hotel, just a 4-minute walk from the Schafberg Cog railway station. It has been family-run since 1918 and enjoys a Falstaff restaurant award.

Take in the serenity of the lake from the restaurant which opens to the waterside terrace. There’s a yoga space and gym in the attic. Other facilities include an inviting sauna, a steam room and garden, and an outdoor infinity pool with direct lake access.

Rosewood Schloss Fuschl

The Rosewood group opened this former 15th-century castle in the Austrian Alps in July 2024 as a luxury lakeside retreat. It offers a total of 98 guestrooms, including 42 suites and six lakeside chalets.

Each guest mini bar is different and hand-painted to reflect the seasons by local artist Marie Hartig. The six food and beverage destinations serving regional produce include a Whisky Room, an extension of the Schloss Bar, created in a moody design, serving 70 high-quality rare whiskeys.

There is also an Asaya Spa and beach club.

Austria Salzburg

Enjoy fresh grilled meat and veg at the popular Hotel Jakob 

Where to eat

Hotel Jakob

With a 170-year-old history, this institution in the quaint town of Fuschl am See. Reserve the wooden BBQ hut in the garden for an exclusive and unique dinner experience, (minimum of 6 persons). Fresh local produce with cuts of meat and fish, vegetables and fruit are attractively laid out to cook and serve from the central log fire.

Forest House Wartenfels

With two cosy bars and a large terrace outside looking out to the Salzburg mountains, Forsthaus Wartenfels has a wide range of traditional Austrian dishes and wines

Try the traditional “kasnocken”, the Austrian version of mac-n-cheese served in a mammoth pan accompanied by a glass of freshly pressed elderberry cordial or a jug of beer at Mayerlehenhutte Die Gruberalm , a cosy hut on the gruberalm in Hintersee. (Lanzenhütte),

Local Food Favourites

Salzburger Nockerl: a sweet soufflé served as a dessert, a culinary specialty in Salzburg. Recipe here

Kasnocken: small pasta dumplings covered in cheese and onions. Recipe here

Jause: various cold cuts, cheese, savoury spreads and pickled vegetables, usually served on a wooden board and accompanied with bread

Mozart balls: made of marzipan with real pistachio and hazelnut nougat cream, coated in dark chocolate, (those in silver and blue wrapping are made in Salzburg) Recipe here

 

Austria Salzburg

SalzburgLand is dreamy year-round

Getting There

Fly from London Gatwick to Salzburg with British Airways  www.ba.com/gatwick.

Customers flying in Club Europe/with eligible frequent flyer status, can take advantage of the British Airways lounge at London Gatwick’s South Terminal.

 

Tourist Offices:

 

***

BeSeeingYou In: SalzburgerLand, Austria

Good To Know: Buy a 5 Treasures card to visit key attractions

WOW Factor: Take time to enjoy the views over the city and area from the Fortress in Salzburg

Tip: If you take the Schafbergbahn cog railway in St. Wolfgang, choose a seat on the left side for the best views

 

Author Bio: Jane Wilson*, The Wellness Traveller

*Jane Wilson stayed in the Fuschlsee region of SalzburgerLand as a guest of the SalzburgerLand Tourist Organisation (www.salzburgerLand.com).

 

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Photos courtesy of Tourismus Salzburg GmbH except where noted

Jane Wilson

Jane is a travel journalist who specialises in wellness travel, an area which has moved beyond the spa and yoga mat and is firmly on-trend. Think slow travel, rituals, retreats, indigenous therapies and destination medi-spas for the ultimate make-over for mind, body & soul. Whatever the reason, Jane considers travel as an investment in health and wellbeing.

As a regular contributor to BeSeeingYou, you will always discover that healthy twist laced into her articles. Jane writes for a range of UK magazines as well her own online media The Wellness Traveller.co.uk

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