By Annick Dournes & Frederic de Poligny
Nabatean tumb in Hegra
Remember a time when going to Petra in Jordan was the height of exciting travelling? AlUla in Saudi Arabia is also a Nabatean site and the obvious new destination for desert and heritage lovers. Hurry there to be among the lucky firsts to discover amazing landscapes and welcoming people.
Desert in this area is simply beautiful with huge rocky formations emerging from the sand and creating an infinity of canyons. Driving, cycling or riding through this scenery is an always changing wonder. AlUla is an oasis in northwest Arabia. It’s been a major stop on the ancient Incense Route and later on the pilgrims’ road to Mecca. For centuries Bedouins have been living here growing palm trees and citrus fruits. But long before them Nabateans had built a kingdom on this vast desert land. They have left us with a fantastic record of their passing in the form of this unique archaeological site.
Other-Nabatean-tumbs-in-Hegra
Since the early 2000’s a French-Arabian cooperation has allowed to carry out extensive work of excavation in Hegra as part as the Arabia Vision 2030. The Nabatean city of Hegra that is only 15 miles away from the oasis is the centre of interest of this vast region. Several civilizations are known to have occupied the site for its strategic value in this remote desert area. It is the first Arabian one to be designated a World Heritage Site. There are over 100 tombs sculpted into high rocks covered with funeral inscriptions. The place has long been seen as a holy land and seldom visited by local tribes. It was thus miraculously preserved and when French archaeologist Laîla Nehme – a world-renowned specialist of Nabatean civilization- first arrived the tombs were partly buried in the desert sand but intact.
Very-ancient-rock-inscriptions-in-various-languages
Of course, Nabateans are the most famous inhabitants of AlUla since they enlarged their territory from Petra their capital city in the first century BC. But the rich history of the site dates back over 200,000 years. In Jabal Ikmah many inscriptions written in Aramaic, Greek, Latin and Arabic on cliffs, ruined walls and fortifications create an authentic open-air library. It actually was a religious site, a holy path maybe leading to a temple where pilgrims engraved petroglyphs, prayers or requests.
The-iconoic-Lions-tumbs-of-Dadan
Close-by, Dadan is the stone testimony of an ancient civilization that occupied the site from the 6th to the 2nd centuries BC. Impressive tombs with lions cut into the rock have been found. The excavation works that started in 2019 are already full of promises and we will soon learn more about this lost kingdom. It is believed that Dadan will be an even more important site than Hegra since Dadan was the capital city of all northwest Arabia in the first millennium BC when Hegra was just a border town of the Nabatean kingdom. This is only the beginning and soon the ruins of a whole city could emerge from the sand. Recently, exactly four months ago, ruins of an ancient temple have been discovered and beautiful man-size god’s statues were found there.
The-ruins-of-the-Lihylianite-Temple-recently-discovered-at-Dadan
The old town of AlUla, built next to the oasis, dates back from the 13th century. Its inhabitants left it in the 1980’s to live in a new town that offered them all “modern” comfort. Recently local clay deposits have been used again to restore these typical houses that are well adapted to the local climate. A good way to give work to local people and preserve ancient know-how. The main street called “the Incense Route” has been totally restored in the traditional way and a few shops and restaurants welcome tourists. It actually is a pleasant walk through the oasis and the maze of little streets lined with no less than 900 crude brick dwellings.
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Today the whole area including AlUla, Dadan and Hegra is an open-air museum. Experts in archaeology, architecture, culture, farming, botany or hotel business have been called to create together a touristic destination in the middle of the desert in a sustainable way. In the oasis where over 80 different species of palm trees were grown things are changing too. Farms have been built and long forgotten crops such as citron, orange, limequat lemon or sweet lemon are planted again. Prosperous, sustainable and organic farming provides jobs for locals in parallel with the touristic development that will take customers to this remote area. Arabian perfumes are also part of the project and more moringa trees will soon be planted. These trees grow fast and love a dry climate. Their leaves and seeds produce a richly perfumed oil known since Antiquity for its moisturising properties. A very promising project!
Try-to-find-the-limits-of-this-secret-and-huge-building
Close to the oasis an amazing building is standing in the desert. Although this is a very vast construction (over 100,000 sq m) you won’t see it before you almost hit it! It is completely covered with mirrors and reflects the surrounding landscape making it almost invisible from afar. It welcomes a concert hall and an artist residency. AlUla should soon be an interesting cultural hub. Before leaving AlUla don’t miss going up the hill next to the old town to get to the huge plateau, from which you will have an unforgettable view over this unique site.
A-villa-of-Habitas-hotel-in-AlUla
The Habitus AlUla luxury hotel is set in one of the many canyons of AlUla desert. Private villas looking like Bedouin tents with large awning made with local craft material have been set along a long path going through high rocky cliffs. Guests can use e-bikes to ride from their villa to the restaurant, bar, spa or infinity pool and enjoy the spectacular setting.
AlUla-Habitas-swimming-pool-and-restaurant
The whole place is decorated with typical material and potteries. Sustainability is the rule. Local materials and knowhow have been used to build the villas. At Tama restaurant fresh ingredients from local farms are used. The spa treatments favour local products as well. Staying at Habitas AlUla feels like being in a Bedouin camp, but a luxury one. The desert is omnipresent arousing meditative experience or inviting you to exciting activities. This journey in AlUla region will definitely not leave you untouched.
More info at www.ourhabitas.com/alula
Text ©Annick Dournes & Frederic de Poligny
Photos: ©Frederic de Poligny
AlUla-palmeraie-surrounded-by-a-desertic-landsape
