Hi Ya’ll !
I’m singing along with Tony Christie on Route 66, en route to Amarillo, Texas. Think dusty plains, wide-open skies, graffiti-painted Cadillacs, a chuck wagon dinner, and an immersive cowboy and cowgirl culture that makes me want to kick up my heels.
Amarillo is in the heart of the Texas Panhandle, about 460 kilometres east of Albuquerque, New Mexico, and about 420 west of Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. It’s also the gateway to the vast and scenic Palo Duro Canyon State Park. Yesiree, even the Wild West scenery is big in Texas. A city deeply engrained with a pioneer spirit, Amarillo is authentic cowboy territory; the real McCoy.
Looking out to the horizon, I see a flat landscape; a patchwork of plains with carpets of yellow daisies, golden wheat, corn and sideoats grama, (a native prairie grass). Expansive, arid and dry, this is Texas cattle country and a place where the best of the old West still thrives along the famous Route 66.
The Texan Vibe
The city of roughly 200,000 has buckets of character blending old west traditions with the new. Amarillo is aglow like the days of old, with its vertical illuminating neon signs still made here at the Skyright Sign Company. I watched glass piping contorted into a recognisable logo, a fascinating lesson in science and artistry.
You can’t escape live country music strumming on stages in bars and parking lots, boots tapping, stirrups jingling and Stetsons nodding while the 100-year-old Amarillo Symphony, Opera and Lone Star Ballet perform in the more formal setting of the Globe-News Center for the Performing Arts.
Amarillo has a mix of architectural styles on parade along the row of cattle barons’ homes. For a closer peek, you can book a tour of the 1913 neo-classic Harrington House with its pretty iron verandas.
On a more modern scale, check out the Helium Time Column Monument, a six-storey, stainless steel structure erected in 1968 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the discovery of helium, awarding the city the moniker of Helium Capital of the World.
Amarillo’s Art Scene
Channelling my inner graffiti artist, a can of spray paint in hand, I joined other enthusiasts adding to the riot of colour coating the half-buried Cadillacs at Cadillac Ranch. This public art installation was created in 1974 by the Ant Farm Art Collective and has become a key symbol of Route 66 culture and now one of the most visited attractions.
In a similar offbeat, playful style, the Slug Bug Ranch, is a line-up of half-buried Volkswagen Beetles and old limos which were used by the Big Texan restaurant.
For those preferring a more conservative canvas, check out the First Friday Art Walk held at Arts in the Sunset which showcases impressive works of art by local artists. And it’s hands-on.
I tried my hand at glassblowing under the guidance of Blind Bird Designs. Inspiring, educational and fun, and a finished coloured glass flower for my effort!
Bring a Texas-Sized Appetite
There is no chance of going hungry with restaurants to appeal to all appetites. The Big Texan Steak Ranch is a family-owned icon and famous for its 72-ounce steak challenge, (a woman holds the current title after consuming three). The bright yellow restaurant sources their premium steaks from local Texas ranches and is certainly a true taste of the Lone Star state, set in a lively and casual atmosphere.
Head to the Western Horseman Club in Amarillo for the cow print chairs and authentic homestyle favourites such as chops, steaks, fried chicken and chicken-fried steaks. In contrast, the Metropolitan Steakhouse & Seafood restaurant offers a more refined culinary experience (Waygu steaks, teriyaki glazed seabass) with chandeliers and a dark draped curtained interior, but still holding onto Amarillo’s signature easy-going style.
Views of hangers, homes and planes zooming into the sky at the Tradewinds Airport while tucking into hearty burritos can be enjoyed at Shelby’s Diner which offers a nostalgic setting for local cowboys and Harley bikers.
Where to stay
With a range of accommodation styles available, The Barfield Hotel is the luxury boutique hotel in downtown Amarillo and steps directly onto the iconic Route 66. This restored historic building is cloaked in the heritage of the Texas Panhandle region.
Cowhide covers the chairs and decorates the elevators servicing 112 stylish guest rooms. There’s also an Italian Steakhouse on site and even a speakeasy in the basement requiring a secret code for entry.
With its storied past, the hotel seems to keep secrets embedded in its walls. It was founded during Prohibition by the pistol-carrying businesswoman and financier, Melissa Dora Oliver Eakle, known as The Duchess, who became a legendary figure as a pioneer of progress. She purchased land which included the Barfield Building, founded the first opera and established the first library during the Great Depression.
Get Your Kicks on Route 66
Amarillo is conveniently located mid-way on Route 66, the “mother road” between Chicago, Illinois, and Santa Monica, California. This is the road that shaped America and celebrates its centenary in 2026. The Amarillo Historic Route 66 District, is lined with a mile of mom-and-pop businesses with wacky names to match: The Handle Bar for the bikers, Rusted Relics Antiques, Smokey Joe’s where bands play in the parking lot, and Aunt Eeks with shelves of books and curiosities.
Legendary The Nat was a music venue and ballroom, and a regular stop for orchestras and big bands such as The Dorsey Brothers, Duke Ellington, Jan Garver, Harry James, Bob Wills, Guy Lombardo. Even Elvis and Buddy Holly played here. Today The Nat is a marketplace with more than 100 vendors selling anything from antiques to housewares.
Established in 1946, The Golden Light Café is the oldest continuously operating café on Route 66 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It’s a classic roadhouse by day, a cantina by night, and a favourite for live music from local and national acts.
Oh, and don’t forget to check out Lile Art Gallery for exclusive cadilite jewellery made with paint chips from Cadillac Ranch!
This is definitely a mile of Amarillo worthy of car cruising.
The Grand Canyon of Texas
Coloured paint is not required in the Palo Duro Canyon State Park, the “Grand Canyon of Texas” where you can, hike, mountain bike, or horse ride along the natural pathways of the former grazing lands of the historic JA Ranch, which was founded in 1876 by Charles Goodnight.
Nature’s colours bathe in natural light, moulded over centuries into the landscape layers of the Spanish Skirts rock formations along the flat trails and the craggy face of Fortress Cliff. It’s an artist’s palette of shades but watch out for rattlesnakes, coyotes and bobcats.
On these grasslands the Comanches and their chief, Quanna Parker, the last ruling native American tribe in Amarillo lived inside caves, under tepees and within the canyons of the Llano Estacado.
Today, it’s a place of quiet stillness and ideal for star gazing the dark skies. The state park is the second largest and the largest driveable canyon in the US.
In The Saddle
One of the most thought-provoking ways to experience the land and capture its spirit is in the saddle, riding posse-style along the rim of the canyon, trotting between cacti, cedar, and mesquite in the open plains where Indiana Jones was filmed.
At sunset, flushed in melting veils of retiring light, you feel the mysticism of the landscape and the lives before us. Horseback riding at Cowgirls & Cowboys in the West, is an all-women ranch on the Los Cedros Ranch providing a genuine taste of ranching heritage.
And even a typical chuckwagon dinner reminiscent of the chuck box invented in 1886 by Charlie Goodnight, while listening to tales of those who roamed here. It is often said that the soul of the land can be heard. Listen carefully, you may hear the thud of ghost hooves galloping around the rim.
Equine-assisted Coaching
Horses hold a superior status in Texas and especially through equine-assisted therapy. Dove Creek Equine Rescue offers coaching with groups and individuals to encourage a deeper inward connection with the horse through eye contact and personal presence.
With patience, the horse reflects and mirrors feelings and can assist in reducing feelings of stress to break through fears and life’s obstacles. The therapy is often described as a “journey of somatic exploration, energetic awareness, emotional intelligence, presence, spiritual connection, and leadership for a new and renewed sense of clarity, purpose and direction”.
These Boots Were Made For Walkin’
Don’t leave Amarillo without a pair of authentic cowboy/cowgirl boots – custom-made. Beck Boots in Amarillo is a family-owned business with a rich history of handcrafting premium, customised cowboy boots.
For generations they’ve combined traditional techniques with exceptional craftsmanship to create boots that are stylish and of course, durable and which are still made using 1940’s machines from Europe. It’s worth a visit and very tempting to leave as an owner of a pair of genuine Texan boots.
I asked the owner Jeremy, why custom-made cowboy boots were made in Amarillo. His response, “Hey girl, this is cowboy country – where else!”
And for a customised pair, it’s decision-making all the way. After precision sizing – colour, shade, toe shape, tongue shape, sole type, heel style, spur ledge, straps preference, design and colour of stitching, number of rows…it’s no surprise Beck Boots makes only nine pairs a day, and it takes 10 weeks for a basic pair. Want something more unique or bespoke? Expect to wait up to a year!
Other Places To Visit Near Amarillo
The Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum (PPHM) showcases the rich history and culture of the Texas Panhandle with exhibits including art, archaeology and pioneer life. It’s a journey through the region’s past. The American Quarter Horse Hall of Fame & Museum celebrates the iconic breed synonymous with cowboy culture. It is the largest international breed equine association.
Amarillo’s convenient location on Route 66 is ideal for exploring iconic places along the route. Vega is 40 minutes away complete with vintage buildings. The restored Magnolia Gas station stands as a photogenic reminder of the golden era of Route 66. The Milburn-Price Cultural Museum’s exhibits capture the essence of small-town life while across the road is Dot’s mini-museum.
Take a seat at family-owned Mama Joe’s Pies and Sweets for fresh-baked treats (pies, cobblers, brownies, cheesecakes) in a cosy, small-town setting. With a population of just 128, Adrian, Texas, marks the exact halfway point between Chicago and Santa Monica (1139 miles/1833 kilometres in each direction). Midpoint Café is not only famous for its ugly pies but also the “Midpoint” sign, where travellers can capture the perfect snapshot celebrating their journey on Route 66.
So, what are you waiting for? Turn up the radio, sing along with Tony, pull on your boots, don your ten-gallon hat and find your way to Amarillo, Texas. It’s the best of the spirit of the West.
Plan your trip to Amarillo www.visitamarillo.com
***
BeSeeingYou In: Amarillo, Texas
Good To Know: Equine therapy is a holistic, experiential and highly specialised form of therapy that involves working in collaboration with a horse
WOW! Factor: Horseback riding, posse style, on the Los Cedros Ranch with Cowgirls & Cowboys in the West to listen to the ghosts of the Comanches
Tip: Don’t forget to get your spray paint to leave your mark at Cadillac Ranch
***
Author bio: Jane Wilson, The Wellness Traveler
Find more travel inspiration at BeSeeingYou