As I finished my daurade poêlée, a delicious sea bream in lemon buerre blanc sauce, a set of dark eyes stared at my plate. I noticed the bird’s bright orange beak and white feathers. He was determined. Luckily, a glass pane divided what could have been a serious food duel. That was yet another close-up encounter with nature that I have come to expect on a river cruise, and my latest aboard VIVA VOYAGE in France was no exception.
It’s life in the slow lane at its best.
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Where were we going?
Billed as Charming South of France, the cruise dawdled from Lyons to Arles along two of France’s most beautiful and majestic rivers. We were sailing along the Rhone and Saône (a tributary of the Rhône) rivers, taking in some of the country’s most idyllic surroundings.
After boarding in Lyon, we set sail for Chalon-sur-Saône, witnessing neat rows of vineyard-influenced riverscapes in Tournus and Mâcon. Returning to Lyon, the cruise continued south on the Rhône, visiting Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Viviers, Avignon and Arles.
Cinematic Scenery
The August heat and sun accompanied us on deck and the moving scenery reflected like a mirror in every shade of green. Birds skimmed the water’s surface, the radiating patterns rippling in all directions; children played at the water’s edge and waved.
We glided past orchards and the fading purple of the Provençal lavender and cheery sunflower fields. Around hidden bends, stone villages came into view. Honey-hued houses huddled beneath church steeples that pointed to the sky, leisure boats hugged the riverbanks and bridges arched over us while residents shouted greetings in French.
Orange parasols shaded terraces of bustling restaurants whose tables held baskets of crunchy French bread and were accompanied by a symphony of colliding crockery and cutlery. In the distance, stoic castles stood proud. We saw it all while playing a game of golf or taking a dip in the whirlpool on the sun deck.
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About The Ship: VIVA VOYAGE
 VIVA VOYAGE is one of VIVA Cruises’ premium ships, featuring 76 spacious cabins and suites across three decks. It was built in 2005 and has retained its classical style with polished wood and a marble atrium and welcome lobby for the 150 guests, a comfortable number to get to know fellow travellers beyond a basic bonjour.
The Panorama Lounge was the social hub of the journey, with a bar for favourite cocktails, a pianist delivering jazz and classic favourites, and talks by the Cruise Director that provided valuable advice and info for the next day’s destination.
In the afternoon, cake was served, and once during the cruise, a tempting high tea. An elevator connected the lobby with the restaurant, the Ruby and Diamond decks.
My cabin was comfortable and spacious (15 m²in size), with two services daily. There were twin/double or junior suites (19 m² in size) which all included a flat-screen TV, daily stocked mini-bar, RITUALS® toiletries, hairdryer, safe, air conditioning, shower and toilet.
The cabins on the Diamond and Ruby Decks all had French balconies, too.
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Dining & Sipping Aboard VIVA VOYAGE
 Guests will find two restaurants aboard: the main one, RIVERSIDE, served an ever-changing menu of dishes with a distinct French flavour from tartare de boeuf (beef tartar), gratin de chou-fleur (cauliflower florets with Cheesy Béchamel Sauce) and bisque d’homard (Lobster Bisque with Cognac Foam) to main courses such as blanquette de veau à l’ancienne (a classic creamy veal stew), truite de rivière meunière (River Trout), and sweet finales such as tarte au citron meringue traditionnelle (lemon meringue tarte).
For lunch, guests could grab a light bite in the lounge or peruse a healthy buffet in the restaurant, that also offered cooked items to order. Breakfast included freshly made smoothies and à la carte dishes. The menus were presented in German and English and offered a good choice of vegan and vegetarian dishes.
Tucked away at the stern was the small French bistro, Vino Vino, a more intimate and casual affair with a smaller menu. Hint: reservations required. Here you could munch into a hearty signature burger, a croque madame (a croque monsieur with a poached or fried egg on top), salad niçoise, or vegan curry while watching the sunset from your table.
Tea and coffee were always available in your cabin or the atrium.
VIVA Cruises Green Initiatives
VIVA Cruises has several initiatives in place, including responsible route planning that saves nautical miles and, use of biodegradable GTL fuel that reduces emissions and promotes CO2 neutrality.
Engines are switched off in many ports to use alternative shore power. Much of the furniture aboard is made from 100% reclaimed wood, and single-use plastic has been reduced and replaced by water dispensers and reusable bottles.
What to expect onshore?Â
We boarded in Lyon, France’s third biggest city, unscathed by war, and a gastronomic and cultural epicentre. It’s where the Saône meets the Rhone and divides the city in two. Its uniqueness lies in the secret passages, known as traboules which unravel behind discreet, heavy wooden doors (270 in total).
These narrow, cobbled tunnels in the silk workers’ district are believed to have been built in the fourth century as a quick route between the river and the maze of streets. They were used during World War ll by the French Resistance when the city was under German occupation. In 1964 Vieux-Lyon, (Old Lyon) was declared a historical monument, keeping its historical significance since the 14th century. Old Lyon is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The cruise also introduced me to Burgundy, the wine-centric region southeast of Paris. We sailed first to Chalon–sur–Saône, where a coach tour transported us to Beaune, 45 minutes away, along part of the Grand Cru wine route.
Beaune is a walled city with ancient ramparts. Here, a key place to visit is Hôtel–Dieu de Beaune, a former charitable alms-house founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin. And it was here where we tasted the local, stinky cheese, Époisse, a soft cow’s milk cheese also known as Époisses de Bourgogne, which in 2023 was declared the best cheese in the world.
Wine is king in Burgundy. Regimented grooves of vines define the slopes and meadows, where no irrigation is allowed, relying instead on their deep roots. Plots are named after medieval times and the vines grown include Chardonnay, (50%), Pinot Noir (40%) and Gamay (10%).
Other excursions included Cluny Abbey, home to the largest church in Christendom, the mother house of over 1000 monasteries. The French Revolution disbanded monastic orders and many of the sites’ buildings were sold.
A trip to Mâcon, the Burgundian wine bastion, is perfect for wine-tasting full-bodied Chardonnays like Pouilly-Fuissé, or dry wines like Saint-Véran.
Don’t leave without tasting the classic boeuf bourguignon, a beef stew braised in red wine— probably a burgundy elixir. The wooden house (Maison de Bois) in the centre of the city is the oldest building in Mâcon. Its façade is decorated with saucy statuettes and masks of men and monkeys making faces. On the east side of the Saône, the Bresse region is known for its chickens, prized for their tenderness, plump white breasts, and taste of the ‘terroir’.
An excursion to visit Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a must for the world-famous wine and its unique position on a hill that appears like an island rising out of the grapevines. At its summit are remnants of the château built by the Popes in the 14th century as a place to stay to escape the summer heat.
The Palace of the Popes in Avignon is the largest surviving Gothic palace in Europe, while Arles is famed for being the muse for paintings by Vincent Van Gogh, and for its in-tact two-tiered amphitheatre (a mini version of the Roman Coliseum).
Book one of the many excursions organised by VIVA Cruises to explore French culture, history and scenery, or hop on one of their bicycles on board to explore the area independently.
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Whatever excursion you choose, exploring France by river is a slowed-down way to reach the doorsteps of charming villages and towns and impressive historic cities worth their weight in cheese and wine.Â
What’s included in a VIVA Cruise?
On board, passengers have access to high-quality drinks throughout the day. In addition to soft drinks, mineral water and juices, alcoholic drinks such as sparkling wine, cocktails and high-quality beers are always available.
The all-inclusive offer includes an extensive full board with flexible meal times, a breakfast buffet, multi-course lunch and dinner, and a high-tea and Wi-Fi. Excursions are not included.
Getting to Lyon
 Direct flights from London to Lyon (London Heathrow with BA and London Gatwick with EasyJet)
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About VIVA Cruises
VIVA Cruises has nine ships sailing to Europe’s popular destinations, offering flexibility and choice designed to enrich, inspire and renew.
Find out more at VIVA Cruises
For further information on the itinerary, click here
For further information on the excursions, click here
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Author bio: Jane Wilson, The Wellness Traveller
Go find your travel inspiration at BeSeeingYou
Photos by VIVA Cruises, except where noted
